OLD First Gundam 1/100 Real Type Dom

Release 1982.2

Price ¥800

BANDAI BANDAI Japan product info

Note that some runners are not individually bagged in plastic.

Parts diagram

Manual

Size comparison with a cigarette pack

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Decal close-up (1/5)

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Decal close-up (2/5)

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Decal close-up (3/5)

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Decal close-up (4/5)

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Decal close-up (5/5)

Decal close-ups

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Bazooka action pose (1/3)

Bazooka action pose

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Heat saber action pose (1/2)

OLD 1/100 Real Type Dom - Heat saber action pose (2/2)

Heat saber action poses

Together with the 1/100 Dom.

In the old 1/100 Gunpla lineup, there were Real Type versions that added different molded colors and waterslide decals — and the very first of those kits is the 1/100 Real Type Dom. Since the parts breakdown is 100% identical to the standard 1/100 Dom, check out the 1/100 Dom reviewfor that.

The molded colors shifted from a black-and-purple combo to a deep blue and dark gray combo, giving it a much heavier, more imposing feel. The red stripe running all around the body and the markings scattered across it definitely make it look flashier than the standard version. That said, the kit I built was produced about 20 years ago, so the waterslide decals were in rough shape. T_T No matter how much water I soaked them with, the decals just wouldn't release from the backing paper, so I ended up spending over 6 hours on an absolutely grueling decal session — and naturally, I made quite a few mistakes along the way. T_T If you look at the review photos, you'll spot a few spots where decals seem to have gone missing... (ahem)

To be fair, with waterslide decals it's less about age and more about how they were stored — but the older the kit, the more questionable the storage conditions tend to be, so it's pretty much a roll of the dice. On the bright side, the decal surface itself seems fairly durable, so once they're on, they don't seem to scratch or peel off easily, which is a relief. Still, I'd recommend using Mark Setter or Mark Softer just to be safe.

Anyway, the fact that the price stayed the same even with decals added is a nice touch. This is a kit I'd recommend to anyone looking to build a different take on an old-school kit. :-)
[ Updated at 2016.4.14 ]

AIThis page was translated by Claude Sonnet.