Kit Review
Straight build
+ decals
No decals on the upper body or face.
Instead, decals only go on the back of the head and the top of the backpack.
Decals are concentrated on the cylinder areas inside the arms.
There are a lot of curved surfaces you need to apply decals to, so..
Mark Softer is absolutely essential.
The bicep cylinders are at least somewhat angular and square-shaped, so they're easier to apply decals to.
The decals applied to the bicep cylinders are exposed to the outside when you bend the elbow.
Fortunately, there's no contact surface, so no worries about them getting scratched during posing.
The decals on the lower forearm cylinders are also exposed to the outside,
but there's a slight contact surface there, so the decals feel a bit precarious..
Decals also go inside the round sections on the sides of the elbows.
The highlight of the Mechanical Clear version decals is definitely the legs!
Decals for the thigh cylinders.
Honestly impossible without Mark Softer;
The thigh cylinders are also exposed when you bend the knee.
Since they're fixed cylinders, there's no risk of the decals peeling off.
The trickiest decals to apply — the ones on the back of the thighs..
They're so thin that the instructions say to cut them with a knife, but sliding them into the grooves is really no easy task..
The inner knee decals — relatively easy to apply.
The most complex-looking ones — the decals on the back of the shins.
Easier than the back-of-thigh ones, but still enough to make your eyes cross.
Beautiful legs from behind..
And then there are the hidden decals..
Decals also go on the movable cylinders below the knee — the ones you can barely even see unless the knee is fully bent.
Every single one of those round sections on the arms and legs gets a decal.
Phew.. those leg decals were rough T_T
Decals also go on the rifle grip area,
but since they're all applied to the inner frame beneath the armor, there's no risk of them falling off.
The decals for the bazooka.
Unusually, they all go on the exterior, so you'll need to take good care of the surface..
Unfortunately, there are no mechanical decals for the shield.
Because the clear frame and some of the armor parts need to be distinguished,
this kit includes two G runners — one in dark iron color and one in clear.
As a result, one full G runner ends up as leftover parts.
The Core Fighter, with its curious mix of clear and internal parts.
First, striking a pose...
Firing pose
Kneeling pose.
Lots of the decaled cylinders get exposed in this pose.
The armor is clear while the missiles are in the frame color —
gives it a really interesting look.
Bazooka action
The decals on the bazooka and arms.
Beam saber action.
The beam saber is clear too;
Beam Jabelin action
Gundam hammer action
Together with the normal version First 2.0.
Together with the clear color version (a.k.a. Milky Clear).
Both are clear versions, but unlike the clear color version which replicates the original body colors in clear plastic,
the Mechanical Clear version has all-transparent armor parts.
The clear color version uses a semi-transparent milky clear approach,
whereas the Mechanical Clear is fully transparent.
All four First 2.0 variants together.
Together with the VF-25 Alto custom Mechanical Clear version, which shares the same concept.
The Alto custom looks even more striking because it has semi-transparent seals on the exterior.
In terms of sheer volume and difficulty of the internal decals, the First is way more brutal..;
Straight build state before decal work.
The straight build alone looks a bit bare~ ^^;