Kit Review
Straight build
+ panel lining + decals
1. Basic
Size comparison with a cigarette pack.
Being 1/100 scale, it's not just big — it's got some serious weight to it.
Front nose section.
Cockpit and side sections.
Mega particle cannon section.
Back shell and wing sections.
Rear verniers section.
Lower nose section.
Caterpillar tracks.
The caterpillar tracks aren't rubber and movable — they're assembled from plastic parts.
They don't move, but the detail is better than rubber would be.
There's even a nice touch where the tracks sag slightly under gravity.
One thing worth noting — when assembling the caterpillar track wheels, each one is shaped so it only fits its matching counterpart on the back,
so there's no chance of accidentally swapping them around.
It's a thoughtful little touch for when you've got a lot of similar-looking parts.
This is actually something Kotobukiya is known for — they make the locking pins on nearly every part
all different shapes, so you simply can't put things in the wrong place.
Bandai hasn't really cared much about this kind of assembly mistake prevention(?) up until now...
Whether it's Kotobukiya's influence or not, they've been slowly showing signs of picking it up lately. A welcome change. :-)
The rear underside... this is where the landing gear attaches.
The cockpit hatch opens up nicely.
For the pilot figure, you choose between Sayla and Sleggar.
The one with broader shoulders is Sleggar, and the one with narrower shoulders and a slightly more prominent chest is Sayla.
Folding back the nose section reveals a small missile gimmick.
Faithful detail recreation worthy of an MG.
(Due to an assembly mistake, the cylinder ended up facing the wrong way. My apologies! ^^;)
The missile launcher mounted on the lower rear of the craft can be opened up.
The mega particle cannon moves just as you'd expect it to.
I wish the joint were just a tiiiny bit tighter, but it's not loose, so no complaints.
On top of the typical G-Fighter A parts and B parts, there are a ton of accessories included.
These are the internal and external parts needed for the various transformation and combination modes.
Various connectors for compatibility with Action Base 1.
Landing gear.
Additional weapons for Gundam 2.0.
The shield does get used in G-Armor mode too, of course.
Not sure what they were thinking, but the MG G-Fighter kit includes a new Gundam Hammer.
As you can see, it looks a bit different from the old one...
For one thing, the tip has been simplified.
The spikes on the hammer are much sharper now.
Looks like it'd actually hurt if it hit you... ;
Also included as a bonus — standing figures of Sleggar and Sayla, plus crew figures.
There are only 3 leftover parts...
But the bottom two are pretty mysterious.
These aren't just unused extras — they're parts that were never used at all. What on earth were they meant for?
Looking at the shape, they look like some kind of vernier connector parts...
Were they cut during a design change, or could they be a hint at another kit down the line?
2. Mechanic Frame
Outer armor removal shot.
The removal method is a bit different from a typical MS...
This aircraft(?) actually has a full inner frame. MG is MG, after all.
The section where you can cleanly strip the frame is really just the center body.
The wing sections on either side are less of an inner frame and more of a built-in frame(??) concept.
(See the detailed explanation below.)
First, the body frame.
I had my doubts, but they actually went and gave the G-Fighter a full inner frame... -_-;
Nose section frame.
Upper body frame.
Side frame.
Vernier-side frame.
The underside is taken up by the container cover, but the detail inside the container is pretty impressive too.
Let's split it back into A parts and B parts and take a look inside...
The internal storage section of the A parts has great detail too.
This is where Gundam's head and upper body connect.
The center of the caterpillar tracks is packed with all kinds of locking gimmicks.
The inner frame of the container is no joke...
Wall and ceiling frame.
The frame structure where the feet rest.
The wing sections on either side don't have an inner frame skeleton — instead,
the inside of the armor is densely packed with engraved detail.
First, the inside of the wings...
There isn't a single spot on the inside of the armor that hasn't been engraved with detail...
They really went all out on parts you won't even see once it's assembled.
The inside of the outer armor also has plenty of molded detail.
The level of molding on the inside of the armor is something else —
it's not just basic skeletal lines like other kits, some areas are done up to full mechanical detail level.
This part is the generator unit that stores inside the container.
It's shaped kind of like Gundam's legs — you pop it in when you don't want to leave the container interior empty. ;
The detail on the generator unit is no ordinary thing — it has a double-layer frame structure.
Peel away the outer frame skeleton once, and the interior is revealed.
The inside of the generator unit is bursting with depth and dimension.
3. G-Fighter
Let's go over how to put together the G-Fighter in its basic form.
The G-Fighter is divided into the front A parts and the rear B parts,
with various accessories combining onto them in different ways.
This is the fixing rod that gets used in multiple modes.
It's loaded with various locking gimmicks.
The lower container cover on the B parts can be opened and closed at various angles thanks to a double-joint gimmick.
Both the outer and inner sections fold, giving it about 180 degrees of movement.
First, attach the fixing rod to the front of the top of the B parts.
Then insert the generator unit.
When the interior is empty, this fits in perfectly. :-)
Insert the fixing rod into the center of the generator to stand it up.
The generator unit is shaped like Gundam's legs.. and the position where you insert and stand it up is just perfect.. (Hey, wait a minute!)
This is the cover locking gimmick.
To prevent the cover from being pushed inward, push the duct-shaped switch inward
so the locking stopper pops out.
Close the cover.
At this point, fold the fixing rod 90 degrees backward,
and the cover will lock in firmly as it meshes with the multiple slots that connect to it.
The container cover closed.
It locks on well and sits at a nice angle.
Insert Part A into Part B.
Using the locking gimmicks on both sides lets you fit it in accurately and easily.
Fold the caterpillar mount backward and shorten its length.
The caterpillar fixing rod operates on a slide mechanism.
Secure the multiple pins at the center of the caterpillar fixing rod to the underside of Part B.
G-Fighter complete.
Check the photos in section 1.Basic above for more detail.
Clean underside.
To fit the caterpillar on correctly, you need to get the angle right on the caterpillar fixing rod section coming out of Part A.
Since it moves in quite a few stages, it's important to make good use of this.
Attach the dedicated caterpillar stand connector gimmick and..
you can display it on Action Base 1 like this.
Now let's recreate the G-Fighter in flight mode with the caterpillar stowed.
First, insert the fixing rod onto the caterpillar's center mount.
Then insert the fixing rod into the top of Part B, fold it 90 degrees, and push the caterpillar into the container.
For the G-Fighter's flight mode, attach the separate underside gimmick.
The underside gimmick attaches to the front of the caterpillar,
and once you close the cover it sits at a clean, sharp angle.
Then push Part A in to press it flush against Part B.
Thanks to the separately added underside gimmick, the lower section comes together without any gaps.
Open the landing gear cover on the rear underside of the craft.
With all three landing gear attached.
The landing gear assembled cleanly.
The front landing gear slots onto the fixing rod section.
G-Fighter landed on the ground.
The landing gear does feel a bit small for the size of the craft.
This is the separate base for mounting on Action Base 1.
It looks pretty luxurious for a connector gimmick..
You can also change the angle by adjusting the positions of the three fixing pins.
Insert the stand connector gimmick into the spot where the landing gear was removed.
Stand on!
G-Fighter in flight mode on the stand.
It's the same G-Fighter, but you can display it three ways — caterpillar / landing gear / flight mode.
Compared to the HGUC G-Fighter.
The difference in grade is clearly visible in the verniers and caterpillar.
4. G-Armor
Push the vernier section at the rear of the wing backward, then rotate the wing mount 180 degrees and fold it back.
Pull out the shield locking gimmick on the side of Part B and bend it into an L-shape.
Part B is ready for the G-Armor!
Bring the Gundam 2.0's beam sabers inward, then pull the shoulders out slightly to create a small gap.
Bring the legs together.
This foot gimmick on the Gundam 2.0 was actually designed with the G-Fighter in mind all along.
Insert the fixing rod into the stand mount on the crotch area.
Push the lower body into the container, then insert the fixing rod into the top of Part B to lock it in place.
Close the cover..
Pull out the two fixing pins hidden inside the caterpillar fixing rod,
then push the fixing pin that was on top of the caterpillar toward the back.
Insert the Gundam 2.0's upper body into Part A.
Make sure the U-shaped fixing pin on Part A wraps around the shoulder joints.
Connecting Part A to the Gundam's upper body is a little trickier than you'd expect, but it gets easy after a few tries.. ^^;
Insert the three pins on the caterpillar fixing rod
into the Gundam 2.0's backpack/rear hole and the fixing rod hole secured to Part B respectively.
Since it plugs into three holes, it locks in nice and tight.
Fold the handle on the inside of the shield and lower it down, then..
Insert the shield handle into the shield mounting hole on Part B.
This locking gimmick just hooks the handle in place rather than snapping it in firmly, so you'll need to get the angle just right.
Insert the forearm fixing pin on the shield into the Gundam's arm.
G-Armor complete!
Being 1/100 scale, it's quite large — nearly 40cm tall.
The underside.
The caterpillar sits right in the center, which helps keep it well-balanced.
The Gundam 2.0's upper body exposed in G-Armor configuration.
Together with the HGUC G-Armor.
5. G-Bull / G-Bull Easy
To make the G-Bull using Part A and the Gundam's upper body,
just separate the Gundam's upper and lower body while in G-Armor configuration.
At this point, rotate the locking gimmick at the center of the caterpillar mount 180 degrees, then raise the fixing pin.
Pull the caterpillar out as far forward as possible, fold it, then insert the fixing pin into the hole on the Gundam's backpack.
Just like with the G-Fighter, you need to get the angle right at the folding point to secure the caterpillar properly.
A separate part that wraps around the Core Block is needed to complete the G-Bull.
Connecting with the Gundam 2.0 Core Block.
Attach it to the Gundam's upper body.
Rotate the mega particle cannon 180 degrees and..
G-Bull complete.
Since the caterpillar is secured to the backpack, it holds its angle well.
Together with the HGUC G-Bull.
This is the G-Fighter Easy without the Core Block. (It's nothing, easy~ ;)
In the original setting, the mega particle cannon rotates to the rear, so the bottom of the upper body with the hole is depicted as the front.
The HGUC G-Fighter Easy follows that same setting, but
in this MG G-Fighter Easy, the eagle head side is defined as the front.
So the G-Fighter and G-Fighter Easy actually face in completely opposite directions.
Visually, the MG's interpretation looks more convincing.
The bottom and rear...
It looks a bit bare without the Core Block.
Rear view comparison with the HGUC G-Fighter Easy.
6. G-Sky / G-Sky Easy
Attach the Core Fighter to Gundam 2.0's lower body while it's already combined with the B parts.
At this point, you insert the Core Fighter connector piece in between, as shown above.
G-Sky complete.
Together with the HGUC G-Sky.
This is the G-Sky Easy without Gundam's lower body,
using the generator unit.
The connector gimmick in the middle works the same way as the normal G-Sky.
Together with the HGUC G-Sky Easy.
G-Fighter Easy and G-Sky.
Since the G-Fighter and G-Sky share the Core Fighter, you can't display both at the same time.
7. Gundam Sky
Unlike the G-Armor / G-Sky, the lower body is rotated 180 degrees before combining with the B parts.
Reattach the Gundam's upper body and insert the stand connector piece.
Gundam Sky complete.
Gundam Sky action pose.
Together with the HGUC Gundam Sky.
8. G-Fighter & Gundam RX-78 v2.0
Finally, here's the combination of the G-Fighter itself with Gundam 2.0.
The MG G-Fighter has a gimmick on top of the wing section to secure Gundam's feet.
Gundam 2.0 riding on the G-Fighter.
You can also pull off roughly this kind of combination.
Action pose with the new Gundam Hammer included with the G-Fighter.
Those spikes look sharp enough to hurt;
Using the extra shield included with the G-Fighter, you can pull off poses like this too..
The extra Gundam shield included with the G-Fighter is subtly different from the one that came with Gundam 2.0.
If you look closely, the G-Fighter shield has a strange locking pin in the middle..
This is a gimmick for the double shield configuration.
First, rotate the locking pin on top of the G-Fighter shield 90 degrees and flip it forward.
Remove all the internal gimmick parts from Gundam 2.0's shield,
and remove the cross piece from the front of the G-Fighter's shield.
Then slot Gundam 2.0's shield onto the G-Fighter shield like this, and the double shield is complete!
The remaining locking parts plug into the new locking pin on the inside of the G-Fighter shield.
The double shield in action. A fun idea!
Action pose combining the double shield and the new Gundam Hammer.
Double shield action!
From the back it looks exactly like someone taking a leak on the street.. -_-
G-Fighter straight build shots.