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Manual
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Runner
At some point recently, it feels like they've been putting a lot more effort into the detail on the 1/100 scale pilot figures..
This has the most densely detailed inner frame of any MG to date.
Hmm.. the internal molding is no joke..
As expected, there are parts marked "domestic use only" —
these are meant to be swapped out with blunted versions for export to countries that restrict sharp parts.
The small wing ducts that tuck into the shoulders..
I honestly can't figure out why they made the runners so complicated for those ^^;
The Rafflesia stand has incredible volume.
Bandai keeps putting more and more effort into their stands with each release.
The runner layout makes no sense.
Seeing all the system injection everywhere, you can tell they're planning multiple variations.
System injection has been worked into various spots on both the outer armor and inner frame too.
Pretty transparent, Bandai ^^;
The beam shield makes its MG debut here.
It's on a completely different level from the old F91 kit or the recent 1/100 SEED kit beam shields — this one is truly MG-worthy.
Look closely and you can see the interior color actually has a two-stage gradient.
Runner
Runner
Runner
* I accidentally forgot to photograph one runner (B parts) T_T
▶Parts
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~ Assembly tips in photos ~
As the first MG to completely eliminate polycaps, every single part of the inner skeleton is made of ABS.
However, due to this structural design, there are a few things to watch out for, and unfortunately some parts appear to be outright design mistakes.
The knee joint cover attachment — the part most people complain about.
It seems to vary from kit to kit, but in most cases you're going to run into trouble assembling this section.
If you haven't built yours yet, please read this carefully.
As shown in the photo above, after assembling the two-piece knee joint,
you're supposed to slide a single solid cover piece down over the entire knee joint from the top.
The problem is.. whether it's a tolerance error in the design or what, this thing is insanely tight.
A lot of people will just casually try to push it in from the top and
end up with it stuck right around that point — can't push it in any further, can't pull it back out.
It needs to go all the way down to the bottom of the knee, but it's so tight it just stops there.;
And since the parts are small, there's barely enough room to grip and push properly, and if you force it too hard,
people are snapping the knee joints and leg parts left and right.
Honestly, in all my years of building Gunpla, this was the first time I've ever felt this helpless -_-;
Hands aching, the part won't go in.. and you can't pull it back out either..;;
Anyway, after a real battle I did manage to get it to that position, but I think I wrestled with it for a good 30 minutes.
When I built the second leg, I managed to work it out with a few simple tricks shown in the diagrams below.
The diagrams explain it all ^^;
Alternatively, gripping the narrow side instead of the wide side makes it a little easier —
but either way, there's just no clearance and it's an incredibly annoying part to fit.
You absolutely need to read up on this knee cover section before you start building, otherwise you're going to be in for a nasty surprise.
If you really want to experience the thrill of panic firsthand, go ahead and just build it blind.. *cough*;
Second issue.. this also looks like a design mistake.
It's the beam saber mounting pin that attaches to the left side skirt armor, and the area where the ball joint is supposed to fit
just doesn't match at all — the ball and socket sizes are completely off -_-;
So you try to fit it and it just won't go in properly, and if you force it you'll just end up snapping it.
You'll need to shave down the ball part a little to get it to fit. (Don't shave too much or it'll be too loose..)
That said, since some people have reported assembling this section with no issues at all, there seems to be quite a bit of variance between kits;;
Not so much a design mistake, but the fingers do need a bit of care.
Like recent MGs, each finger knuckle is individually segmented for separate articulation..
but unlike other MGs, the connection area between the fingers is way too wide, and the articulation pivot is a thin pin rather than a ball.
So if you try to cut them apart with an art knife, it won't cut cleanly and you'll likely just end up snapping them.
If you really want to separate them properly, use a razor saw — otherwise, just leaving them as-is is probably better for your sanity :-)
★ Complete assembly notes from the manual ★
1. The knee covers (E22/E23) — no words needed, they're the worst. Don't skip the explanation above or you will suffer.
2. Fitment issues with the left side skirt armor inner mounting pin (H26). Please refer to the photos and explanation mentioned above.
3. The movable mask part (B11) is structurally fragile and prone to breakage, so be careful when removing it from the runner and when cleaning up the gate marks. Also, when folding this mask piece back, the design requires you to lift it slightly before tilting it rearward. If you just force it straight back, there are many reports of the eye stickers coming off along with it, so watch out for that too.
4. A lot of people have trouble with the connection between H4/H5 (the body-side ball joints) and H30 (the Buster Rifle-side socket) that links the Buster Rifle on the back. In my case it was a bit stiff but I didn't have major issues getting it in and out — however, some people have snapped it from misjudging the force needed, and especially if you try to pull it back apart later for painting or other reasons, it can be very stubborn and risk breakage, so handle it with extra care.
5. When assembling the Buster Rifle, fitting part H28 — which enables the front articulation gimmick — into E5/E18 can be quite tricky. Take your time and fit it carefully, because if it goes in wrong it can cause problems with the Buster Rifle's movement.
6. The three shoulder heat fins on each shoulder have very small and fragile attachment points, so fit them carefully and gently.
7. When removing thigh frame part F24 from the runner, the armor mounting pins are attached right next to the gates, and some people have accidentally cut them all off. Read the manual carefully and cut with care.
8. On top of all that, the small yellow parts have pretty iffy attachment. Not all of them, but there are many reports of pieces from the knees, shield, side skirt armor, and ankle guards silently falling off and disappearing without anyone noticing -_-;; Might just be better for your sanity to glue them all down cleanly. They're so tiny and light that they just vanish without a sound;;;
* That's it — as long as you watch out for the above, there shouldn't be any major issues with the rest of the build :-)