Size comparison with a cigarette pack

You can attach the cage parts and sub-stands to the base stand.

The upper gauge slides forward and backward.

The three sub-stands can be attached by slotting them lightly into the back.

The shoulder clamps and five front crane arms open up.

Cockpit open shot using the cage's crane and the 1/100 figures.

The weapon lineup is pretty varied. The pressure of having x3 and x6 of things...

The bazooka and beam Gatling gun parts are the same as the existing MG Unicorn Gundam parts.

The inside of the shield in Unicorn Mode and Destroy Mode.

Compared to the existing shield, the differences are that the psycho-frame has been changed to clear for the light-up effect,
and a center fixing pin for the light-up has been added.

A grip part that fits perfectly with this kit's fixed hand has also been added to the beam Gatling gun.

You can also combine the three sub-stands as shown.

Five 1/100 figures are included.

Joint parts for use with an Action Base are also included.

Both a fixed Unicorn Mode head antenna and an articulated antenna are included.

For the head antenna stickers, you can choose between regular yellow and glittery yellow.
For the LED light-up effect, you should not apply the green stickers over the eyes and camera eye.

The method for storing or attaching the weapons is the same as before.

Since a clear guide pin for the LED light source goes into the center of the shield,
when attaching the shield to the forearm, you need to swap in a slightly shorter forearm part to make room for the guide pin.

Leftover parts

If you don't position everything precisely as shown in the manual, there won't be enough internal space and the top head cover won't come down far enough.
Forcing it down risks breaking parts, so you really need to carefully follow the manual and get the Unicorn Mode face properly seated inside.
After trying various approaches, it seems like temporarily detaching the head from the body before transforming it works best.
Either way, I think a lot of people are going to feel pretty lost right from the head transformation — so take it slow and easy... (it's an expensive kit T_T)

If you grab the upper body and yank it straight up, or try to pull it out too far,
there's a good chance the internal locking pin will pop out -_-
It's a real pain to get back in,
so when extending the waist, please twist it side to side and pull it out gradually, little by little, like in the photo above.

The chest duct doesn't open down as far as you'd expect...??
It opens quite a bit less than the original MG Unicorn,
but that's how it was designed, so be careful not to force it open and break it.

The front skirt opening mechanism has also changed — it went from a two-stage hinge-open style to a slide mechanism.
It's pretty stiff to just push the armor up directly, so you'll need to push the locking pin from the back and ease it up gently.

Pulling out the crotch section is also really stiff.. It just wouldn't budge, so I ended up grabbing it with long-nose pliers and forcing it out -_-
That said, it does stay extended more securely than the original MG Unicorn, which had the annoying habit of sliding back in too easily..

The rear skirt clicks open in two stages, so it holds its position a bit better than before.

The side skirt extension method is the same as before, but it's really stiff.
In my case, I was sweating bullets trying to pull it out carefully so the waterslide decals wouldn't get damaged.

The shoulder transformation feels a bit smoother than before,
but the small parts at the top (the ones separated earlier) are guided to stay in their original position.
On the original MG Unicorn, rotating the outer duct would automatically raise the small armor piece.

Compared to the original MG Unicorn shoulder (left),
the small armor piece doesn't spread open or rise up — it just ends up floating slightly.

However, since it's a slide-type part, you can nudge it up slightly to position it similarly to the original, like shown above.

The biggest difference is that the wing-like structures at the top of the calf, front and back, are now articulated.

The locking pin on the inside of this wing structure can secure the knee's psycho-frame.
When you pull out the knee psycho-frame, it clicks into place at the end,
and with the side wings holding it in as well, it locks in really solidly.
This completely fixes the old problem where it would pop back in at the slightest touch,
and the front knee armor's retention has also been improved.

Size comparison with a cigarette pack

Mounted on the stand with the LED unit turned on.
When you first press the button to turn it ON, only the head lights up.

Cockpit hatch open in Destroy Mode.

Articulation comparison with the 2007 MG Unicorn Ver.Ka (left).
The knee articulation, which got a lot of flak back then, has clearly improved by leaps and bounds.

On the original kit, the small wing-like structures at the back of the lower leg restricted knee articulation,
but on the MGEX, they open outward, allowing the knee to bend fully.

Even packed full of LED units, there's still a gimmick that lets the shoulders swing forward.