Strike Freedom Gundam Lightning Edition

It's a big box..

Runner

Runner

The main LEDs on the body look like this.

The light-up area is pretty large.

The LED that goes into the head is small. But that structure looks really familiar..
It's the same head lighting setup straight from the PG.

The head requires a separate CR1220 (3V) battery to be inserted.

LED connections in the arm section. Wiring runs through the polycap holes all the way up to the shoulder,
and the entire interior of the arm is designed to light up through a yellow semi-transparent frame.

The interior uses a yellow light-up frame like this, and then the armor is put on over it.

Black tape is applied to the front and back of the arm so that only specific points light up.

LED connections in the leg section. A large LED is positioned below the knee,
and wiring is routed through the gaps between the joints.

The lower thigh section is entirely a yellow semi-transparent frame capable of lighting up.

Black stickers are also applied to the legs as a kind of "mask"(?) so that the lighting is concentrated only at specific points.

LED secured at the center of the body.

The wiring from the body LED is routed around to the back and secured there.

Both arms are attached to the body frame and the wires are twisted together.
At this point, the arms should be connected while folded in that position,
because this pose is the one that draws the wiring inside the arm out to its longest length.
You need to leave some slack in the wiring inside the arm so that articulation isn't restricted.

As shown in the photo above, the two wires from each arm need to carry + and - respectively,
so they have to be arranged alternately, one wire at a time.
Note that the LED polarity doesn't matter which end is + or -, as long as the two ends have opposite polarity.

Once the upper body frame is complete, the LED wires from the arms are connected to the metal contacts secured on the back.

After assembling the lower body, you need to carefully tuck the wiring into the grooves carved inside the body.

The LED wires from the legs are also arranged alternately just like the arms, and connected to the metal plate.

And that's how the wiring for the body, arms, and legs is all done.
The basic idea behind this wiring is to bundle all the + and - leads from every LED in the body/arms/legs into one set each.
That way, a single power source can light up all the LEDs in the body, arms, and legs all at once.

Now the legs are attached to the body.. and any excess wiring is stuffed out of sight like this.
(That said, if you look at it from an angle you can still see it;)

Because the entire body is organically connected by wiring like this..
once you've built it up, it's really hard to take apart.
That's going to be a bit of a headache for anyone who wants to paint it.

Kira pilot figure.. The figure detail is pretty decent, but since there's no cockpit detail,
you have to attach it like it's just floating in mid-air;; (Imagine the Eagle Fortress ride at Everland)

This kit has quite a few joints that rely on plastic-to-plastic friction rather than polycaps.
The wing section in particular is like this — it's stiff so it holds position well, but there's a chance it could loosen up with a lot of movement.

Metal contacts inside the stand.
This is to carry the power from the batteries at the base of the stand all the way up to the top.

Assembling the battery box. Simple enough.

You'll need 3 AA batteries.

The bottom part of the stand (where the batteries go) and the long support rod connect to each other metal-to-metal, like shown.

The top of the stand is shaped like a plug, and you insert it into the big ol' hole (;) in Strike Freedom's crotch area
and connect it just like plugging in a power cord.